Most riders know to wash their riding jeans, their gloves, even their helmet liners. But when it comes to their armored base layers? They'll go months – sometimes years – without cleaning them, terrified that water and detergent will somehow ruin the fit or degrade the stretchy quality of the fabric.
After years designing and wearing Bohn Body Armor, I've heard this concern from riders constantly. The truth is, proper washing won't damage your armor or compromise your protection – in fact, the oils, sweat, and grime you're leaving in there are far more likely to break down the fabrics and elastic over time.
After every ride comes the gear ritual. Proper washing keeps your Bohn protection fresh and ready for the next one without damage
The good news? Washing your armored gear is easier than you think, and doing it right will actually extend the life of your investment.
Quick Links: What We Are Washing Today
If you are reading this, you likely own one of our core pieces. If you are looking to add a spare shell to your rotation so you can wear one while you wash the other one, here are our most popular items – all can be ordered without the armor (if you already have it)
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AirTex Armored Riding Shirt: Our classic riding shirt, available in multiple colors.
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Cool-Air Mesh Armored Riding Shirt: Our go-to for hot weather, which naturally means it sees the most sweat.
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All-Season Armored Riding Pants: These feature our Lycra™ fabric that hugs the body; keeping them clean ensures that snug fit remains consistent.
3 Truths About Washing Motorcycle Gear
Before we get into the step-by-step, I want to share a few things that might surprise you about caring for armored base layers.
1. Your washing machine is safer for your gear than your sweat is.
Leaving sweat, oils, and road salts in your gear actually breaks down the elastic fibers of materials like Lycra™ faster than a gentle wash cycle ever will.
2. The dryer is the enemy of your armor, not the water.
Water won't hurt your CE Level 2 armor, but high heat absolutely will destroy the chemical structure of the viscoelastic foam.
3. Fabric softener is a performance killer.
Softener coats the technical fibers of our Cool Air mesh and Lycra™, clogging the weave and stopping the fabric from wicking moisture away from your body.
Step 1: Remove the Armor (It’s Easier Than You Think)
One of the biggest complaints I hear about competitor gear is that the armor is stitched in or difficult to access. We designed Bohn Body Armor specifically to be modular – you can take the armor out in just a few minutes. This is critical because you want to wash the fabric shell frequently, but you don't necessarily need to wash the armor pads every single time.
Lay your shirt or pants on a flat surface and locate the envelope pockets where the armor sits. Our SAS-TEC foam is pliable, so you can gently fold the armor pad and slide it out of the pocket. The whole process takes less time than finding your clean socks.
Pull the armor out first – it takes 2 minutes and keeps your SAS-TEC pads safe while you wash the shell.
Here's the system that'll save you headaches later: stack the armor in piles corresponding to where they go – left knee, right knee, left elbow, right elbow. Our elbow and forearm armor is a significant 5 x 12 inches, so keep track of which end is the top. Future you, standing there wet-handed after washing, will appreciate the organization.
Step 2: Washing the Fabric Shell
Once the armor is out, you're left with a high-performance fabric shell – whether that's Cool Air mesh, Lycra™ (Airtex), or Performance Thermal. The washing rules are the same across all of them: wash the garment normally and make sure the sweat-soaked areas that touched your skin get the most agitation. Use cold or warm water on a standard machine wash setting. Do not use scalding hot water.
For detergent, stick with a mild, liquid formula. Avoid powdered detergents if possible – they can leave residue in the fine mesh of Bohn’s fabrics. Skip the bleach and skip the fabric softener. Both will break down the elastic and moisture-wicking properties you paid for.
SAS-TEC armor slides out in seconds. Remove it before washing the shell – you'll wash fabric often, armor only once or twice a season.
Here’s the mesh bag trick that’ll save your gear: if you’re washing your Bohn shell with other riding gear – jeans, jackets, anything with zippers or Velcro – put your shell in a mesh laundry bag first. The mesh itself is durable, but the Lycra panels can snag easily, and Lycra and Velcro do not mix. It’s a $5 investment that protects a $200+ piece of gear.
Step 3: Cleaning the Armor (Only When Needed)
Our armor is made from high-quality viscoelastic foam from SAS-TEC – incredibly durable and designed to mitigate impact energy effectively, but it requires specific care. You generally don't need to wash the armor every time you wash the shell.
However, once or twice a season, or if you've had a particularly muddy adventure ride or a long and hot day, you'll want to freshen them up.
Here's the rule: do not put the armor pads in the washing machine. The tumbling action combined with the spin cycle can be too rough on the foam structure. Instead, take a damp cloth with a little bit of mild soap and wipe the pads down.
If they're truly soaked in sweat, you can dip them in a sink of lukewarm soapy water and gently squeeze them – but don't wring them out like a dish towel. Just gentle squeezes.
Modular design means armor slides out in seconds. Clean the shell often, hand-wash the SAS-TEC pads once or twice per season only.
This is also a great time to inspect your armor. While SAS-TEC is designed to last 5-10 years before the material properties begin to degrade, it's always good to check for any tears or nicks, especially if you've taken a tumble recently. A quick visual check while you're cleaning can catch problems before they become safety issues.
Step 4: Re-assembling Your Gear
Once everything is dry, it's time to put the protection back in. This is where our design really shines – because we built this gear with real riders in mind, we made the pockets accessible. You won't need instructions, but there are a few things worth getting right the first time.
Orientation matters. The "cup" or concave part of the armor should be facing your body. If you put it in backward, you'll feel it immediately because it won't conform to your joint – it'll dig in instead of cradling. For the knee and shin armor (a generous 5.25 x 12 inches), make sure it's seated all the way at the bottom of the pocket and you secure the lip around the bottom of the protector. Same goes for the hip and tailbone pieces.
Armor goes back in cup-side toward body, fully seated in pocket. Bohn's body-close fit keeps protection over joints, not sliding.
When you put the armor back in correctly, the fabric should hold it snug against your body. This body-close fit is a key differentiator for Bohn Body Armor – it keeps the armor where it should be, over your joints, rather than sliding around like it often does in loose-fitting jeans or jackets. If the armor shifts while you're moving, it's not in the right spot to protect you.
Why Keeping It Clean Matters for Fit
We talk a lot about how our gear offers "invisible protection" because it fits under your regular clothes. But that low profile relies on the elasticity of the fabric.
When Lycra™ and elastic mesh get dirty and saturated with sweat, they can lose a little bit of their "snap." They might feel slightly looser after a week of heavy riding.
Washing the fabric "resets" the elastic memory. When you put on a freshly washed pair of Bohn All-Season pants, you will notice they feel snug and secure. This isn't just about looking good; it supports safety.
A snug fit ensures that the armor stays positioned correctly over your shoulders, elbows, back, hips, and knees – the key impact zones. If your gear is loose and sagging because it hasn't been washed in a month, that armor might shift during a slide or impact.
The "Motel Sink" Method for Touring
I talk to a lot of customers who ride cross-country. One of the huge benefits of our removable armor system is that it makes multi-day touring much fresher.
If you are on a two-week trip, you don't need to pack 14 shirts. You can pack two Bohn shirts and one set of armor.
Wear one shirt while riding. In the evening, take the armor out and put it into the fresh shirt for the next day. Take the dirty shell and wash it in the motel sink with a little travel detergent or shampoo. Hang it over the shower rod, and because it’s Cool-Air mesh or Airtex, it will be dry and ready to go by morning. If it’s not, use a cool hair dryer on it until the last dampness is out.
This is much harder to do with Kevlar® lined jeans or heavy jackets where the armor pockets are difficult to reach or the fabric takes multiple days to dry.
Caring for Kevlar® Flannels and Jackets
If you own one of our Bohn Flannels or the Soft Shell Jacket, the process is slightly different because of the materials involved.
These items feature Kevlar® thread woven throughout the entire garment (not just reinforcement patches at the elbows and shoulders like some competitors). They also include the same CE-Level 2 armor.
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Remove the Armor: Just like the shirts and pants, take the pads out first.
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Wash the Garment: You can machine wash these on a cold cycle.
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Dry: We recommend air drying the flannels and jackets to prevent shrinking. The Kevlar® lining makes them a bit heavier than a standard shirt, so give them plenty of time to dry.
When to Replace Your Gear
Even with the best care, gear doesn't last forever. Depending on how much you ride, the elastic in the fabric will eventually start to relax – though with regular wear and proper care, this should not happen for a few years. If you notice that even after washing, the fabric isn't holding the armor tight against your body, it's time to replace the shell.
The beauty of Bohn is that you don't have to buy the whole set again – you can just buy a replacement shell and transfer your armor over. This is much more affordable than buying a whole new setup.
Our SAS-TEC armor is robust and designed to withstand multiple impacts. However, if you're in a significant crash, you should inspect the armor carefully. If the foam is torn, cracked, or looks deformed, it needs to be replaced. That armor just did its job protecting you – don't ask it to do it again in compromised condition.
Replace shells when elastic loosens, armor after crashes or every 5-10 years. Even well-maintained gear has an expiration date.
Generally, we recommend replacing the armor every 5-10 years. Over time, environmental factors and age can eventually affect the chemical composition of the foam, reducing its ability to mitigate injury effectively. If you've been riding in the same armor since 2015, it's time for fresh pads – even if they look fine.
Taking care of your Bohn Body Armor is simple and worth the small effort. By keeping the fabric clean, you ensure the armor stays in the right place, you extend the life of the garment, and frankly, you’re just going to be a lot more comfortable on your next ride.
If you have any specific questions about a stain or a specific machine setting that I didn't cover, you can always reach out to us directly. We are riders here in North Carolina, and we want to help you stay safe and comfortable on the road.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I put my Bohn armor in the dryer?
No. You should never put the armor pads or the garment itself in the dryer. The high heat can damage the viscoelastic foam, causing it to harden or become brittle, and it can also degrade the fabric. Always air dry both the armor pads and the garment away from direct sunlight.
How often should I wash my Bohn armored shirt and pants?
You should wash the fabric shell whenever it feels loose or smells sweaty, just like your gym clothes. Washing actually helps restore the elasticity of the fabric. You only need to wipe down or gently hand wash the armor pads once or twice a season, or if they get muddy.
What kind of detergent should I use?
Use a mild liquid detergent. Avoid powdered detergents, bleach, and fabric softeners. Fabric softeners can clog the breathable mesh and reduce the moisture-wicking capabilities of the gear.
Can I wash the Kevlar® shirt?
Yes, you can wash our Kevlar® shirts and jackets. Just be sure to remove the armor first. Wash them on a cold cycle and hang them to dry to prevent any shrinkage.
Does washing the fabric affect the fit?
Yes, in a good way. Washing helps "reset" the elastic memory of the Lycra™ and mesh fabrics. If your gear feels a little loose after a few long rides, a wash will help bring back that snug, body-close fit that keeps your armor in place.
How long does the armor last?
The SAS-TEC armor we use is designed to last up to 10 years before the material begins to degrade. If you are in a crash, inspect the armor for damage and replace it if it is torn or deformed.
Can I buy just the fabric part if my armor is still good?
Absolutely. We sell "replacement shells" for our shirts, pants, and shorts. This allows you to refresh your fabric without paying for new armor, or to have a second set of fabric to rotate through during the riding season.
Is it hard to put the armor back in?
It is very easy. The pockets are designed for easy access. Just fold the armor slightly to slide it in, and make sure the concave (cup) side is facing your body. Ensure the armor sits deep in the pocket for proper coverage.
